A line in the sand, light on the horizon

Today was a great day on the sea with Peddelpraat. Whatever we paddle we are allways in sight of Huisduinen lighthouse, that's the plan. And generally aiming 'for somewhere' on Noorderhaaks sand-spit and visiting the southeastern tip of the island Texel. Exact route dependent more on the wind than the tide.

The wind is a solid northerly 4 Beaufort. With 18 participants we split up in two pods; one with Onno. Ron is also here today. Ron and Onno have been paddling mates since teenage and both were leaders of my first ever open water paddling trips, and I enjoyed many early-years 'epic' paddling trips with them. This is their home waters and they are still younger than me.

The crossing to Noorderhaaks is a 'northerly-ish' ferry glide. The springtide ebb is very fierce today and the southwestern tip of Noorderhaaks and the surf west of it becomes closer and closer... We land on the most southwesterly part of Noorderhaaks.

Our next leg is paddling close inshore to the southeastern tip, avoiding the strength of the current. However, we have to re-think as a seal floats by next to the beach at about 3 knots... A small over-fall is forming... My kayak for a play... A nice open-ended channel between sand bars offers us a shallow route avoiding this tidal corner.

The rest is pretty much straightforward. Having lunch, stopping on Texel and crossing back to Huisduinen. I set up my sail. With a 4-5 Beaufort wind I am cruising at 4-5 knots without paddling, maintaining exactly the groups downwind paddling speed.

A varied day with wind, tide, current, waves, shipping, sunshine, seals, sand, sand, more sand, a beacon lighthouse, good friends, white clouds, clearing blue skies, a fresh wind and 360° of open horizon.

Slideshow

GPS Track

Baja Pictures

7 people with a total of 11 camera's on an 10-day sea kayaking trip in Baja Mexico from Loreto to La Paz resulted in 4000 pictures. When someones says a picture is worth a 1000 words does this mean I have to describe the experience in 4 million words? Skipping the 'crap' I am still left with 469 pictures. Killing many darlings and I end-up with 155 pictures. Maybe in a few months I could cut back to less than 100? And I could summarize the experience with one word anyway. Amazing!

While February/March has a high chance of seeing whales from the kayak in this area, there is no guarantee. But we were fortunate to see quite a few and a Finn whale VERY CLOSE. Amazing!

What looks like guaranteed this time of year, apart from seeing dolphins, is touching Grey whale mother and calves in Magdalena Bay area at Adolfo Lopez Mateos on the west coast. Reading and hearing about it I was a bit apprehensive about it. Would we be harassing the whales? Anyway when the Grey whale mothers with their calves are literally off the panga (motorboat) dock and they swim towards the pangas for a baby shower and human touch, one can hardly say they are disturbed. And with their size a panga is hardly a match for any corrective slaps. Greys are HUGE! Their skin feels like a very thick wet shammy leather. Amazing!

Only just recently I saw in a documentary how Grey whales feed (in Alaska). They scoop-up ocean floor sediment to filter out amphipods, shrimp-like animals that live in the sediment. Amazing!

Slideshow

GPS Track

Journey's End

This morning, the last day of February, the final issue of Sea Kayaker Magazine arrived on my doorstep. My subscription started in 1998. Vividly remembering missing the August 1997 issue from the newsstand that was also sold-out as back-issue... No more issues to be missed, up until from now on.

As a reader, I learned lots about sea kayak safety and awareness. I got my copy of 'Sea Kayaker Deep Trouble' from my role-model sea kayak instructor. He passed his copy on to me with the remark: 'stupid people doing stupid things'. I learned lots from it, did a few embarrassingly stupid things myself, learned from it and shared it so others could learn from it.

My 1999 Southeast Alaska adventure was inspired by reading articles about paddling the inside passage of this state that I became to love while backpacking the Pacific Northwest & Alaska. Never touching my back-pack again ever since I started using my 'float-pack'.

As a writer, I felt very privileged to have two (technical) articles published in SK. A third article, my journey in the Faeroes, went through various edits with Christopher Cunningham but never made it in print. It just did not make the mark. I learned lots about writing in that process, thank you Chris! It is not easy to be published in a quality magazine. With the ending of Sea Kayaker Magazine I think that quality is lost.

Christopher writes in the final issue that reader surveys showed less interest in longer outings and more interest in day trips. Maybe 'sea kayaking' has become so popular that the relative interest has shifted towards 'recreational day trips'. Sea kayak touring is a mere niche compared to SOT, kayak fishing, SUP, kayak fitness, etc.

With the internet there is too much competing 'content'. Quality is rarely the norm anymore, just the speed to 'blurb' it out. It takes me about one hour to write a post for my blog. Not that I pretend quality, I just cannot find the motivation to post anything 'lasting only a day' on Facebook or tweet my moods. Too much time wasted on computers anyway.

I found myself reading Sea Kayaker Magazine only when I am away from my computer, which is less and less. The luxury of relaxed reading without interference of 'nagging' e-mails on the ferry to and from Britain on my way to Anglesey... It won't be too long before we can access free internet from the remotenest of places and never be without. I just returned from a wonderful trip in Baja with Ginni Callahan and found out that phone and internet access are creeping down the coast from Loreto...

Three boxes of paper copies remain. Thank you Sea Kayaker for the journey!

Time Stood Still

Looking at the hands of time on the "Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó" in Loreto in Baja California Sur, time must have stood still since I was here last time in March 2011. The picture was taken at 5:30 PM... Or did I arrive before touching-down?

I am here (again) with a Dutch group of paddlers for a trip with Ginni Callahan of Sea Kayak Baja Mexico. Thursday we start our sea kayaking trip to La Paz.

Baja & Loreto are magic places.

Weed & Reed

Today was the first day in my kayak after my eye laser treatment, paddling with Saskia, Paul & Marc. A new experience paddling without glasses.

A little gray and windy day. The area is a nature reserve and it's environment meticulously 'preserved' by the annual cutting of the reed fields. Apart from expensive thatched roofs for the rich (high labour cost), reeds are less and less used. Without cutting the reeds, the environment would change, probably to forests.

A great area to paddle through this time of year. Not only because of the reed cutting and open views, but also because it is not crowded with other recreational water users and tour boats that congest the channels in Summer. Nearby Giethoorn is particularly popular for visitors.

Eyes of a Tiger

My glasses were in desperate need of replacement having lasted unchanged for more than 15 (!) years. They have been all over the world and seen lots of salt water. The frame is missing non-essential parts for at least 5 years. I never understood when paddling partners could not read my weather/tide crib cards, now I know. I am getting old... My sight for distance did not change over those years, but for relaxed reading (books) I would need reading glasses, for my computer 'computer-glasses'? I already inquired about a new pair of glasses. But I left the eyeglasses shop utterly confused of needing three pairs of custom corrective glasses for best results. Not a nice spectacle.

Upon advice of my girlfriend Saskia, I inquired about eye-laser treatment. As a risk averse person I initially had a huge reluctance with accepting this option. Although the risks are considered to be small, these are my only two eyes... After two independent check-ups and three months of contemplating I finally went for it.

Yesterday afternoon I had my eyes laser treated. For the interested: it was Lasek Wavefront. This is the least 'invasive' treatment, but it is offset with the most healing pain that can last a week. I had prepared for excruciating pain when the localized anesthetics would wear off. Pleasantly surprised I am typing this the morning after without pain. Sight is still blurry, but my pair of glasses are useless now... Final, stable, results can only be determined after 6 months and after one year.

Recovering for the next 4-6 weeks I will be paddling in Baja in February, but from now on only with non-descript sunglasses. I might still need cheap reading glasses at some point.

Tiger Prints

On our way back from Abraham's Bossom we were treated with nice surf waves at Penrhyn Mawr. Not big, but easy to catch. A nice day to end our stay in Anglesey.

Back on my feet

OK, I promise to take back a bit on choosing fitting post titles. Today we (Saskia, Shawna, Leon, Barry, Justine and I) hiked up Snowdon. Hiking up knowing there is also a train takes away some of the pressure. At the top the wind is howling. And no train back...

Back again

The weather looked promising for another play at Penrhyn Mawr. However the swell is exceptionally big today. Infrequent big sets run into Porth Dafarch. Saskia cleared a particularly big set that had me skip a heartbeat or two.

Penrhyn Mawr at slack looked foreboding. Even the 'Chiken Run' had a swell run through it. Not a day to play here. Instead we paddled to Trearddur Bay hoping to find some surf. Unfortunately T-Bay was too sheltered for the swell direction, no surf there.

It is nice to hear, see and smell how big swell crashes on a rocky shoreline. Another nice day on the water.

Back in a sea kayak

Today was the first day in a sea kayak after my lower back injury. Nigel kindly lent me an ExplorerHV sea kayak so that had a little more legroom for my still hurting hamstrings. Saskia and I left from Porth Dafarch beach for Penrhyn Mawr, where a good swell was running.

It was very difficult to take it easy today not wanting to over exert my back. Seeing Shawna, Leon, Justine and Barry catching the perfect waves did hurt a bit. After a break Saskia and I continued to South Stack.

My back feels OK, only my left leg hamstrings are still a bit stiff.

Expeditions

Early yesterday morning I spent a lot of time thinking about my next big expedition. After attending a BCU UKCC L3 core training at Plas-y-Brenin I stayed in Holyhead for the week. I learned about pending new expeditions and record attempts around Anglesey. Justine Curgenven (in a Valley Rapier) just put the pressure on everyone by closing in on John Willacy's record (in a Taran) by just 14 minutes... Sea Kayaking UK is also starting to stir things with their new Cadence racing sea kayak (breaking the Isle of Man record).

After a lot of painful contemplations, I decided my next big expedition was to get from my bed to the bathroom.

I hurt my lower back earlier last week. Despite OK on Wednesday to paddle the Swellies, I got struck down worse on Friday. I found myself immobilized on Saturday morning. Eila was kind enough to sponsor me with food and inflammatory drugs. Dale kindly advised me on a cold-pack and hot-bath recovery scheme. Unfortunately Geoff Murray from Tasmania got the short end of it. I had promised to go paddling with him on Sunday, but my back, although recovering, is not in any state to sit in a kayak.

On this truly gorgeous Sunday with perfect tides for a 'stacks run', my next expedition was to walk from the house I am staying in to South Stack and back, a 1 mile journey. Expeditions do not have to be far away, long or fast, they are about adventure and personal accomplishment. My expeditions of yesterday and today fell into that category.

Having said that, take a look at Sarah Outen's amazing journey that takes her to an unexpected place.

Gathering at the Swellies

This evening I paddled at the Swellies with Barry and Phil. This is a popular place for sea kayakers at spring-tides for a surfable standing wave forms then. When it runs well one is never alone and soon familiar faces dropped into the scene and onto the wave.

The locals can catch the wave more easily than I can. It was hard work to get it just right to have long runs without being swept off on the left- or right-hand side of it. I enjoyed a few great long rides today.

When the Swellies wave diminished the next play-spot was off the cardinal marker rock. I have never played there before. Here it was easy to drive the bow into the 'hole' where the current rushed over a submerged rock. I surfed and locked my kayak on the rock in front of me and within a few minutes I was loose off the rock because of the rising water level, still surfing. With an increasing roaring sound of rushing water; ever changing.

A great evening it was.

Peddelpraat Sea Kayak Week with BBB

This year's PeddelPraat sea kayak week was very special with the presence of Shawna Franklin & Leon Sommé of Body Boat Blade International.

It is a Peddelpraat tradition of more than 30 years to invite over inspirational coaches for an influx of new ideas and opportunities for looking at existing skills from a different perspective.

Participants and coaches enjoyed a great week and learned lots and lots. Shawna & Leon are truly amazing coaches.

Body Boat Blade

In the run-up of this year's PeddelPraat sea camp, internationally renowned sea kayak coaches Shawna Franklin & Leon Sommé of Body Boat Blade International gave two 1-day coaching workshops for a number of Dutch sea kayak instructors.

I first met them at USA sea kayak symposiums. I was thrilled that they came over to the Netherlands and could arrive early to run some coach development sessions. But what would our Dutch sea kayak coaches think of their approach to coaching?

From the 12 participating coaches (6 per day) I heard comments like: "The best coaching ever", "Why didn't I have this kind of coaching years ago when I started coaching?", "I learned more today than in my whole coaching carreer" and "Can we already book them for next year?".

I find it impossible to summarize the two days. Anecdotal is a moment at the beginning of the second day where the participating coaches were given a combination technique without too much explanation and having them try to figure it out for themselves. Most were struggling to get it 'right'. Lots of puzzled faces. One remark of a participant I vividly remember: "This is the worst coaching I ever had". In a split-second I recognized that these first ten minutes on the water would turn into the best coach development day that I had ever observed. The combination 'technique' formed the basis for a complete and comprehensive day on individualized coaching and understanding the core fundamentals of (sea) kayaking skills and skills development. Pretty awesome!

From aspirant sea kayak coaches to senior coaches we all found coaching gems to incorporate into our coaching practice.

Sparks & Splashes around Texel

Arriving early for a weekend trip with Peddelpraat around the island of Texel, Saskia and I had a nice evening paddle from Den Helder to Noorderhaaks and back.

Fogged in

Today was my third attempt to (co-)organize a Zeevaardigheid-Extra (Sea Kayak Leader) assessment for the Dutch Canoe Union. To no avail...

Last year it got canceled for no conditions, in March it got canceled because of sea water temperatures of 3 degrees Celcius. Today it was already canceled because of only force 2/3 winds. However the candidates were keen to use this as a training day instead. Now fog is preventing any paddling. By law we could only be on the water when we would have radar.

The above picture is a still from the webcam on the roof of Lands End hotel & restaurant at Den Helder at 07:17 today. Below is the live feed.

T-Bay Remits

Today Trearddur Bay was flooded with 4* and 5* trainees. While the 4* kept to the shelter of the southern side, the 5* ventured out in a bit bigger waves and strong(er) (onshore) winds.

The above picture is a bit deceptive, but it gives a nice perspective to the 'outer remits' compared to the safety of the inner bay.

Apart from tidal currents all skills aspects of 4 star (and probably 5*) could be practiced. We could even pick a nice 3-foot surf zone to launch and land through.

Holyhead Mountain Highlights

On the Trail,
Up the Mountain,
Off the Track,
Down the Slope.

A nice afternoon hike with Saskia from North Stack to South Stack & Ellin's Tower and back.

Solo PM

Do not think you are ever alone in Penrhyn Mawr.

Skerries Twice

I arrived a week early for the Anglesey Sea Kayak Symposium. While Nico and Karien run this year's Anglesey week for the Dutch Canoe Union, I am 'jobless'. I had some plans for personal paddling, however weather and tide are not always perfect at the same time.

Today I paddled from Porth Dafarch to the Skerries. Taking the 'conveyer belt tide' off Penrhyn Mawr brought me to the Skerries within two hours. I arrived before 'Skerries sunrise'. With no sunshine and the prospect of a three-and-a-half hour wait, I decided to paddle onwards to Cemlyn.

During that navigation I changed my mind. I should have planned better before leaving the Skerries with my fluke change of plan. The quickest way back would be from the Skerries again. I aimed for the mainland, missing West Mouse wide, and paddled the eddy towards Carmel Head. With 1.5 hours of the flood still to go I ferry glided on a 270 degrees course back to the Skerries where it was blazing with sunshine. The sun always shines on the Skerries (if you arrive after local sunrise that is) !

Back to Porth Dafarch took a bit longer with the ebb just barely starting. This was a very nice paddling day.

GPS Track

Menai's Moving Water

Chris took above photo of me playing the small race off the west side of Ynys Gorad Goch. Below is Lianna surfing at the Anglesey side.

Paddlers Polishing Plates

OK, the literal English translation of "Peddelaars Poetsen Platen" does look a bit 'odd', like the above picture. However yesterday 28 sea kayakers took on upon the grass-roots initiative by Hartger, Paul and Marian to clean the Noorderhaaks sand spit from trash. The initiative was welcomed by KIMO environmental NGO that took care of logistics for getting the collected trash back to the mainland.

Interesting finds were a brand-new kite-board with phone number (we did not find the owner yet) and a Scottish GPS-tag that still held some fur of it's previously tagged owner, probably a seal. The exact composition of the trash will be investigated by KIMO.

Bing Sting

This morning I got a worrying e-mail from my hosting provider: "This message is to advise you of a temporary block placed on your account. This account was found to be consuming an inordinate amount of processor time, to the point of degrading overall system performance."

Looking into the matter I found the culprit being the Microsoft Bing search engine crawler... That was indeed firing away thousands of website (and connected database) calls a minute... OK, Microsoft software is generally seriously flawed, however that MS is spawning "Denial of Service attacks" is new to me.

Proper dealing with web crawlers involves a universally recognized and respected robots.txt file. So I added a 'crawl-delay' for the 'Bingbot'. Within minutes after the change, my website was blocked again with a prompt informative and helpful support team e-mail saying: "The site is being swarmed by Bing crawlers. Bing crawlers do not respond to a robots.txt file". Another serious misconduct by Microsoft.

The hosting provider support team directs me to "Bing Webmaster Tools". Not to be confused with "Google Webmaster Tools". Google Webmaster Tools is THE BEST (free) webmaster support tool EVER. Probably something that Microsoft now tries to copy. But in the very best of Microsoft traditions they just created a big mess of theirs.

Instead of allowing Bing to find my site, I just now made it extremely hard for Microsoft to index my site in Bing, at least to a point that it NEVER EVER AGAIN comes anything close to launching more 'MS DoS attacks'. What use it is to have ones site on the #1 spot on a search results page, only to be arriving at a blocked site? Microsoft now surely made it to Junk status (with a negative outlook), at least with me. More than April fools!

Anyway, part of this beautiful Easter monday was spent with a short but rewarding family outing, kinda reunion. What happened to my kayaking? Is Spring finally out there? Paddling in due course!