This evening I paddled at the Swellies with Barry and Phil. This is a popular place for sea kayakers at spring-tides for a surfable standing wave forms then. When it runs well one is never alone and soon familiar faces dropped into the scene and onto the wave.
The locals can catch the wave more easily than I can. It was hard work to get it just right to have long runs without being swept off on the left- or right-hand side of it. I enjoyed a few great long rides today.
When the Swellies wave diminished the next play-spot was off the cardinal marker rock. I have never played there before. Here it was easy to drive the bow into the 'hole' where the current rushed over a submerged rock. I surfed and locked my kayak on the rock in front of me and within a few minutes I was loose off the rock because of the rising water level, still surfing. With an increasing roaring sound of rushing water; ever changing.
A great evening it was.
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