Fishing

Justine and JF gave me options what to do today. Low water in the morning for viewing black bears and/or fishing for Salmon at high water in the afternoon.

Fishing would be new for me, so that was an easy choice. All set with a fishing day permit for me we set out. We did not catch any Salmon in the inlet but we did see about eight black bears.

Justine and I then went out to the ocean to get a guaranteed catch of the day for our evening meal. While fishing and catching some rock fish two fishermen called out to us if we wanted the Salmon that they still had on their line. This turned out to be a massive Spring Salmon that did not quite fit in the bag.

I actually did catch one rock fish but it was kinda small and I released it. My fishing needs some getting used to because most of the time I spent untangling the hook from deck lines, bungees, net mesh, kelp, the lure itself or my finger and at one time even from Justines' kayak.

PS. My computer or it's adapter died so I am now experimenting doing all from my mobile phone.

Photos : https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZefSZd6Pht9ohprz5

Another Time, Another Place

I arrived in Ucluelet. I am visiting Justine and JF at SKILS.

I was surprised how logistically easy it was to reach this kinda remote town on the west coast of Vancouver Island; affectionally called Ukee by the locals; probably to prevent variations on the pronunciation of Ucluelet.

My first time traveling to Canada by air. Flying via Toronto and Vancouver it was just a straightforward bus/ferry ride to get there. The young female bus driver (from Nanaimo to Tofino) handling the long bus as if it was a mini car; reversing and tight-turns and all; with explanations in English and French. First time also any airline put me on the exit row seats; lots of legroom on an economy ticket where I could not even select seats in advance. Totally surprised.

Not much after arrival Justine already took me on a short hike around Amphritrite Point. It was kinda foggy, but between the sheets of fog some spectacular scenery showed through. A wonderful paddling area with lots of rock-hopping to do; gullies (and wave action) everywhere.

Now trying to get the jet-lag (my foggy mind) out of the way to be fit to do some paddling later this week. And kayak fishing!

Holy Island

Yesterday, this years' Anglesey Sea Kayak Symposium week drew to a close. With a georgeous weather forecast I joined Eila, Ashley, Lianne and Thom for a circumnavigation of Holy Island. I only paddled this trip two times before but never clockwise.

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Anglesey Sea Kayak Symposium 2018

This years' Anglesey Sea Kayak Symposium all again could share experiences and knowledge with other paddlers and coaches from all over Europe, Britain and North America. Anglesey is a great (the best?) training and testing 'ground' for paddling, judgement and leadership skills in moderate and advanced tidal waters. One does not need too much wind or sea state to find great challenges and fun learning opportunities here.

For Nigel Dennis and Eila Wilkinson this years' symposium got overshadowed by the Holyhead Marina Disaster in March. I could witness the last remnants of the clean-up and salvaging with my own eyes and it was much, much worse than I even imagined I would see it.

I finally had time to get around sorting-out my symposium pictures and writing some blog entries. I am very much looking forward to next year and be again part of this great knowledge and experience sharing sea kayaking community.

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A Song of Life

I first met Sien on an epic sea kayaking trip with Peddelpraat around Texel in 1995. Sort of, because the sea state did not enable me to chat while paddling and we returned a few hours into the trip in two seperate pods; against the tide.

The name on her boat was SIENSWIJS. I thought that was an intriguing name, because it can be read in different ways. My first thoughts were of "Siens’ View". But also as "Siens' Song" and "Sien is Wise". Over the years I came to learn that all three intepretations did justice to her.

In 1997 Sien asked me if I would like to join her on an expedition in southeast Alaska. Little did she know that Alaska was the reason why I started paddling in the first place. So in June 1999 our team of four set out on a five week paddling trip around the outer coast between Sitka and Hoonah. She was also adventurous on foods. Salmon and Kelp allright, but Hermit crabs were a bit too adventurous for me.

In 2003 Sien, Jan and I paddled in the outer Hebrides. Cooked limpets are quite edible I learned then. A bit chewy, but I memorized that next time I would take them only when there is no sandy beach around.

Sien was diagnosed with terminal cancer in 2012 with a very short life expectancy. She did not capitulate to this. With amazing energy she built 3 skin-on-frame kayaks since, went on numerous hikes with her brother and continued paddling/camping with friends and did solo sea kayaking trips in-between chemo treatments. We even planned another Alaska trip in 2015, but the uncertainty of her fitness prevented planning a paddling season ahead.

It was nice to see her at the Peddelpraat Winter meeting this January. A month later I got an invitation to celebrate her 65th birthday with paddling friends on May 6th. I would not be able to physically attend as I would still be in Anglesey at that time.

Last week I got the sad news that she was taken into hospital quite unexpectedly and that her physical condition was rapidly deteriorating. We spoke on the phone and her voice was energetic as ever, both knowing that we would not speak or meet each other again. Sien passed away on May 2nd with all family present.

Siens’ Song; A Song of Life.

Anas Returning Home

When I started to take interest in sea kayaking in 1994, Fred, a collegue at work, happened to be a trip leader for Peddelpraat. Whenever I met Rick Carrick-Smith at the Anglesey Symposium, Rick asked me about Fred's Anas Acuta. Whenever Fred would sell it to sure get into contact with Rick first.

This year driving to Anglesey with a very original Anas Acuta on my roof-rack and a wooden-bladed Lendal paddle in the boot. I made sure to stop-by Porth Dafarch to make some pictures. The number on the back deck of the kayak is Rick's BCU membership number. This Anas Acuta is now re-united with one of the original Nordkapps and the Lindisfarne.

Below is the history of this original Anas Acuta, written by Rick.

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The Anas Acuta Sea Kayak

This kayak was based and measured on a historic Greenland boat by Geoff Blackford with accurate drawings rescaled for present day body shape by Duncan Winning. Translated to glass fibre by Valley Canoe products as their first seagoing kayak, it is described as 'A real joy to paddle.'

This example was built for Rick in 1976. Totally influenced by the line drawing of an Angmassalik kayak in Alan Byde's definitive book of that time, Rick asked Frank Goodman of V.C.P. to build it.

Frank had recently introduced the 'Nordkapp' and was reluctant to seemingly regress. However, as it left the mould, he remarked, 'It glows like a jewel', in his typically owlish way. (Translucent Amber was the 'in' colour of that time).

This IS the 'one-off' that returned the Anas Acuta to production.

Very progressive for its time, hatches, a pump, deck fittings and lines were innovations.

The hatches of the three boats here are prime prototypes of this idea.

Notably used by Rick for an Outer Hebrides expedition in 1979, wet or dry suits were yet to come. Cord jeans with woolly sweaters were topped by a harsh nylon cagoule. A large flare pack on the back deck contained sleeping and bivvy bags. Food (mostly tinned) clattered in the back and also stuffed alongside the front buoyancy pillar. Thus fully laden and tilting, with only the pin tail appearing from the water, the rear deck emerged as we ate our way forward.

An interesting comment on the characteristics of these early boats arising from this expedition was the exhausting weather cocking of the Nordkapp, the skittery dance of the Anas Acute - so readily corrected - and the rock-solid forward stability of the accompanying pair of 'Baidarkas'. Skegs were yet to come.

Suspiciously allied in design with the accompanying Lindisfarne, here, it was in these two boats that Rick and Di Fenn were 'subjected' to their Senior Instructor (Sea) training by Derek Hutchinson in 1978 on the north-east coast. Observed by the rest of the group, Derek 'set up' an impossible towing scenario over off-shore shoals, gleefully announcing, ‘Gentlemen, we are about to witness a little drama of the sea', whilst completely unaware of Di’s husband alongside. Our own next awareness was of rocketing skywards in an intimate embrace. Witnesses told of a vertically parallel pair of boats clearing the water by some two feet and Hutchinson facing a tightly clenched fist.

Rick worked with others over many years in development of the Dutch coaching scheme and in 1986, this cherished kayak passed into private ownership in Holland until its return in 2018.

L.Carrick-Smith (aka Rick)
May 2018
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Rise from the Storm

On the night of the 1st March superstorm Emma hit Anglesey and with winds of 70 knots totally wiping out the entire marina and sinking and destroying over 80 boats along with Playmate and Nigel Dennis' yacht on which he lived with his partner Eila all year around.

Nigel Dennis who is a well-known expedition sea kayaker and sea kayak designer has used the last four years of his spare time working on his dream boat Playmate.

The idea of Playmate was to create super cool expedition support boat which would take sea kayakers to remote places of Scotland and Outer hebrides and show them sea kayaking from completely different perspective. When not on the sea the all carbon kevlar fleet of sea kayaks would be stored on the fly deck of Playmate. If the weather would not be favourable for kayaking all members could enjoy the scenery from the comfort of this expedition super boat with a wee dram of whisky in their hand while cruising along the islands.

After almost four passionate years of spending most of his free time on his dream boat Playmate she was nearly ready for her first season. The moment was was just around the corner with a few bits and bobs to do including finalising her insurance.

Then disaster struck.

What a devastation to lose your home and hobby. All the energy and time spend on Playmate lays at the bottom of the sea.

Through the years Nigel has helped so many kayakers to follow their dreams doing expeditions and motivating people to do their best.

There are stories of paddlers coming to him with very little experience asking for sponsored sea kayaks to go around the UK and he would reply "I will lend you a boat and if you do not make it you will bring it back and if you make it you can keep the kayak." as Eila said "Nigel just wants people to do well."

Now it is up to us the sea kayaking community; to support for once Nigel who has helped and influenced so many people. And see his dream coming through and get Playmate off the bottom of the sea and get Nigels spirit to fly high again. We believe he more than deserves it.

With so many people around the world if we contribute even little we can get the boat afloat for Nigel.

Above was written by Ashley Williams. She has started a Rise from the Storm fundraiser to recover Playmate.

Nigel has been of enormous help throughout all of my sea kayak and coaching development. From the first day I met him at the Anglesey Sea Kayak symposium in 2000 and ever since. I recognize myself in all that Ashley could put into words about the support and opportunities Nigel has given.

Penguins ?

When I asked around for pictures of yesterday I would never ever have thought Ray would be 'tricked' into this one. A select few Dutch sea kayakers know about Ray's Penguin warm-up one time at the annual Dutch Sea Kayak week; for many years organized by Elko (left) and Onno (right). And where do Penguins live?

Peddelpraat Ray Union

Yesterday was the annual Peddelpraat winter meeting.

For the past 20 (!) years Ray Goodwin guided the Scotland sea kayaking trips for Peddelpraat. Sea Kayaking? Isn't Ray that world renowned open canoe coach and guide? Yes he sure is. Ray, Lina and Maya were invited over to celebrate 20 years of Peddelpraat sea kayaking trips in Scotland.

What was his lecture about? Open Canoeing for sure. Anecdotes of his sea kayaking trips would fill the rest of the day with all the paddlers that so much enjoyed his guiding. I was impressed with his film about his Algonquin open canoe trip with two families with children. So Open Canoeing abroad with Ray is next? We have a signed copy of Ray Goodwin Open Canoeing so we better start practicing with one blade. Cunning plans... Another one of Ray's specialties.

Exactly a year ago I headed out to Ushuaia for my month long sea kayaking trip to Antarctica with a group guided by Justine Curgenven. Family health issues and other priorities had literally shelved the 7.000+ pictures and still unknown many hours of film footage of this expedition.

Yesterday was also the premiere of my Antarctica lecture. Condensing a 'life-time' experience into 45 minutes. Where I could probably talk an hour on every one of the 30 days there! Or just share one picture that says it all. Even all the trips with Ray. It is all in there (apart from the camp fires).

A little personal emotional moment at the start of my lecture when I realised that ALL of the paddlers that I learned sea kayaking from, my mentors, my coaches were present. Even the retired ones and paddling buddies that I have not seen for 10 years or more!

While Peddelpraat is 'just' one of the national kayak clubs, they invited every other national sea kayaking organisation. And ALL were there; the busiest winter meeting ever. The clubs' motto, since it's founding in 1975, has been [paddling] with each other not against each other. A national (sea) kayaking gathering it was.

P.S. I do not have pictures of yesterday, so hoping to share some of those later.

Weather Bound

Because of a high wind warning and flash floods in New York my flight to JFK got canceled. The flight already had an hour delayed arrival. After boarding the plane and waiting in it for more than an hour we had to leave the aircraft; deplane.

Lots of flights got canceled and lots of people are stranded. I am now booked on an extra flight early tomorrow morning. At least my connecting flight to Amsterdam is still valid. The only thing is that I now cannot spend a day in New York city, something that I was looking forward to.

I never before had the luxury to be offered a 'bed' right at the airport. Logistically probably the most conveniant solution. That and the rocking chair and the power outlet.

Earlier today...
I am not sure if I understand Starbucks anymore, if ever I understood them. The only coffee joint that was open. Apart from a 'Latte' there is no recognizable other coffees on the menu. I asked for a Cappucino and got the question: "What flavor?". Huhhh? I replied: "Regular". Not really sure if the cashier understood me I added: "Medium size". A minute later I got a 'Frappucino', not what I ordered. But they still do Cappucino, but I probably have to 'SPELL IT OUT: A HOT CAPPUCINO". I got my Cappucino instead and it actually tasted like Cappucino. A regular hot coffee might be even harder to get.

Happy Hands

Today I saw a remarkable example and result of using a metaphore. Dubside is running rolling classes at the Ocean Gathering Symposium.

I first met Dubside in 2004 at the Delmarva Retreat, a Greenland symposium where I first got truly immersed in Greenland kayaking skills. That was a humbling experience then. I met Dubside again on a few other occasions but never had the opportunity since then to see him coach.

One of the students wanted some tips to improve her off-side roll. After some observation Dubside asked her if she knew about Micky Mouses' Happy Hands. She came-up on her off-side with the same open hand position as she went over; with the paddle between her thumbs and index fingers; perfect. Even better than on her 'on-side'. Impressive observation and use of metaphores; Happy Hands!

Just before lunch, Dubside had the group race to the beach. I think I could keep up with him with my euro paddle: faster, faster, faster; for a short while... And only with most extreme exertion. Humbling experience again... I consolidated on all my Greenland rolls I ever could do before.

Rocky Landing at Little Tybee

Tybee Island has lots of sandy beaches, offshore sandbars, current, tide-rips, waves and surf. The Savannah River has a big shipping lane, buoyage and a very long stone breakwater (at low tide). However rocky landings and rescues near rocks, that is in the British Canoeing Moderate Water Sea Kayak Leader syllabus, requires sometimes some improvising.

The same probably goes for dealing with 10+ second ocean swells in some other parts of the world. Or areas with lots of rocks but no tides. Or areas in the UK that have only sandy beaches? What is the definition of 'Moderate Water' ?

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Rough Water Discovery

I am at the Tybee Island Ocean Gathering Symposium. Today we went out for some rough water discovery.

Tybee Island is blessed with numerous offshore sandbars, of which the 'triangle' is the most famous and treacherous. But with the right conditions it is an amazing rough water playground.

On the northeasterly tip of the island, just 100 metres from the sheltered put-in at Tybee Creek, waves create confusing seas. On the flood this is a safe playground because whatever happens a paddler drifts into an eddy behind the point.

But on the ebb everything drifts into more and bigger waves. Last year I had someone out of the kayak standing knee deep on the sandbar (without the washed-away kayak) but unable to walk to the beach because of the fierce rip current around the point. That created some interesting group management challenges.

An offshore sandbar off Little Tybee Island allowed for safe playing conditions on the ebb. Again anything would drift out of the surf zone into calmer water; today. Challenging conditions, low consequences. With Dolphins around us in the surf and on our way back.

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Tri-State Sea States

This is my second year at the Autumn Gales Symposium. It is run out of the scenic town of Stonington in Connecticut. It is less than two miles to Fishers Island that is in New York state and about two miles towards Napatree Point that is in Rhode Island.

Long Island Sound fans out over reefs between Fishers' and Napatree creating tidal races on the ebb and the flood. Ideal topography and distances for the Autumn Gales', that runs for the nineth year. One day we crossed over to Beavertail out of Narragansett.

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Skerries Questionmarks

The tide was perfect for a paddle out to the Skerries at max ebb. Yvonne planned the trip yesterday but we were aware and both questioning if the weather (wind) would suit the plan. With the last few days of strong westerly and northwesterly winds, yesterday force 6 to 8, 'on paper' this trip today would be questionable to say the least.

We went to Cemlyn to look at the sea and discuss the options. The sea was very white and rough at the obvious locations of the various tidal races out there and around the Skerries. Furloughs race was unplayable in a way that we considered it unsafe. There looked to be 'pathways' towards the Skerries that would be 'possible', but why the risk? The wind was still a solid force 5/6 against max ebb. Questions...

Lots of alternative plans came to mind. In the end we decided to paddle against the flow towards Cameas Bay and have lunch there. After lunch the tide would have eased a bit and would probably change some perspective? Paddling back towards Cemlyn the wind had dropped to 4 and the sea had quietened down to a point where I asked Yvonne on the spot to take us to the Skerries.

At dead slack we arrived at the Skerries. A short break there and then surfing back to Cemlyn Bay via West Mouse.

Decisions: when question marks become exclamation marks.

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Hike

With the forecast for today and possible paddling tomorrow Yvonne and I did a wide hike up and around Holyhead mountain 'visiting' the paddling highlights from high ground in high winds.

At North Stack we could peek down at Parliament House cave. We saw three addult seals and a seal pup on the beach. Two addult seals in the water between the all white rock gardens. The seal pup was dangerously braving the surf line on the gravel beach. Washed up with every wave and again and again making it's way towards the waters' edge... What are you doing?

Double Bill

With a strong wind forecast the plan was to paddle out of Trearddur Bay towards Rhoscolyn Head. It soon became clear that we would not go much further. Heading into the beach at the Caravan Park beyond Ravenspoint we decided for Plan-B.

Overlooking the sea, we discussed and evaluated safety issues. What did we expect it to look like before heading out? What are the conditions actually? Learning opportunities. Happy to paddle in these conditions? Comfortable to perform a rescue? Heading out wide for 'big sea' paddling conditions back into T-Bay.

After lunch Mirco wanted to try-out back surfing. The surf did not look too impressing at first but back-surfing was incredible today.

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Looking for a lunch spot

The Saturday club has gathered for a paddle out of Porth Dafarch. There is a nice swell. There is not much happening at Penrhyn Mawr yet, so we continue towards Abrahams' Bossom for lunch. But all beaches are taken by pupping grey seals. We paddle back to Porth Ruffydd.

Along the way we meet a Norwegian Paddling group with Gry. She was on the Antarctica trip with Justine in February this year.

The rest of the afternoon was spent playing at Penrhyn Mawr. Lumpy but not intimidating.

With Ed, Paul, Rich, Geth, Yvonne, Axel, Petr, Steve, James and Gry.

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Quantum Paddle

A big contrast to the stormy weather in Isle of Man just yesterday. A beautiful sunny day paddling to the Skerries from Cemlyn. Keirron, Marc and I decided to continue to Porth Dafarch for a nice workout.

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Calf of Man

A nice day around the Calf of Man, a small island off the southern tip of Isle of Man. Wind, tide, waves and cliffs make for a variation of fun paddling conditions; a great playground. I am here for the Isle of Man sea kayak symjposium by Adventurous Experiences.