This evening I paddled with Justine and Stuart on the Swellies wave. Sharing it with quite a few playboaters.
I was totally oblivious to the holding power of the stopper forming behind it, only until I saw Stuart sideways in the stopper, partly engulfed in his sea kayak. On the pictures it still looks 'benign' for the light was too low to keep making pictures.
We stopped when it got too dark to see the black hole in the front and the other padders. It is difficult (for me) to stay on the wave with a 'long boat'. But I get better at it for it was an extra big spring tide; 10.4 meter (one of the biggest ever) today and I felt more comfortable then ever before here.